You may have noticed it's wool sewing season! Here are some tips on how to sew and care for one of our favorite fibers.
Wool is generally considered to be sheep's fleece, though many animals also produce hair suitable for textile use. Alpacas, llamas, goats, rabbits, and yaks are also raised for fiber, but we typically see these fibers referred to by the specific animal they came from. If something is simply labeled "wool," it's probably sheep's wool.
For the purposes of sewing and care, however, treat any of the above animal fibers with the wool tips below.
First up: pre-treating. Yes, you can wash wools!
Hand-wash wool to pre-treat: use cold water, mild soap, and let it soak a bit (avoiding agitating) then squeeze the extra water out.
If you can set your washing machine to spin only, then put your wet wool in for a spin to remove all the excess water. If not, roll it up in some big fluffy towels. Then air-dry your wool, supporting it well to prevent sagging.
Your other option is to have it steamed at a dry cleaner. You can do this if you plan to dry-clean the finished garment.
Next up, sewing! Wool is so incredibly forgiving to sew. The fibers are soft and bouncy and have a slight natural stretch. This makes it really easy to ease sleeve caps and steam darts into shape.
Stitches sink into wool's texture and can virtually disappear. A blind hem stitch can be quite invisible!
Edge finish seam allowances on wool with a serger or zig-zag stitch - or try a bias bound Hong Kong finish if you want to be fancy!
To line or not? Wool garments don't have to be lined! A lining can provide support, structure, and a smooth inside, but it's not crucial to success. Many wools have unbelievable next-to-skin softness. Others can be fully lined, partly lined, or worn with layers - a light slip or blouse is perfect under a wool dress, skirt, or vest!
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