It's Treadlette Tuesday! Marina shares her latest quilt, an abstract geometric piece that she made and quilted herself!
This abstract design is fun and fresh, and the geometric straight-line quilting really sets it off!
Tuesday, March 29, 2022
Treadlette Tuesday: Marina's quilt
This abstract design is fun and fresh, and the geometric straight-line quilting really sets it off!
Friday, March 25, 2022
Friday Fun Fact: Interfacing, Part 1
It's our Friday Fun Fact! Every week we'll share interesting bits of sewing knowledge, tutorials, fabric care info, sewing history, and more!
Interfacing, Part 1
Sewists are often challenged by choosing interfacing, but it doesn't have to be hard - we'll walk you through!
First of all - what is interfacing?
Any fabric that you use to invisibly support your main fabric could be considered an interfacing. Most often we use a specially designed product that can be sewn in or fused in place with an iron.
Next - do you need it?
Always use interfacing under buttons & buttonholes, to support and stabilize the fabric.
Interfacing is usually required in collars, to keep them crisp, and waistbands, to prevent stretching.
It's optional but can be helpful at zipper and pocket openings.
For facings at the neck, waist, or armhole, it depends on your fabric! A delicate fabric might need more stabilization than a sturdy one.
Click here to shop interfacing!
Sewists are often challenged by choosing interfacing, but it doesn't have to be hard - we'll walk you through!
First of all - what is interfacing?
Any fabric that you use to invisibly support your main fabric could be considered an interfacing. Most often we use a specially designed product that can be sewn in or fused in place with an iron.
Next - do you need it?
Always use interfacing under buttons & buttonholes, to support and stabilize the fabric.
Interfacing is usually required in collars, to keep them crisp, and waistbands, to prevent stretching.
It's optional but can be helpful at zipper and pocket openings.
For facings at the neck, waist, or armhole, it depends on your fabric! A delicate fabric might need more stabilization than a sturdy one.
Click here to shop interfacing!
Friday, March 18, 2022
Friday Fun Fact: Moth prevention
The weather is warming up, and you may be thinking about rotating your wardrobe. But before you stow all your wool garments, spend a little time on moth prevention.*
Moths are particularly attracted to soiled spots, so clean all woolens before storing for the season.
They also prefer dark, musty spaces, so let air and light into your closet frequently, and keep the closet floors and corners free of dust.
Finally, if you do notice moths, inspect and treat immediately to prevent spread.
Moths are particularly attracted to soiled spots, so clean all woolens before storing for the season.
They also prefer dark, musty spaces, so let air and light into your closet frequently, and keep the closet floors and corners free of dust.
Finally, if you do notice moths, inspect and treat immediately to prevent spread.
Click here for an article with more moth-prevention tips!
*you guys, bugs are gross and I had like 7 panic attacks researching this for you, so. . . you're welcome. :)
*you guys, bugs are gross and I had like 7 panic attacks researching this for you, so. . . you're welcome. :)
Friday, March 11, 2022
Friday Fun Fact: Tucks
Let's talk about tucks!
You might be familiar with pintucks, which are simply a teeny-tiny tuck the width of a pin. The skirt below features 1/4" tucks and 5/8" wide tucks.
Any width of tuck is sewn by carefully measuring and pressing a fold, then stitching close to that fold. The distance from the fold determines the width of the tuck.
Sew 1/4" from the fold, you get a 1/4" tuck. Sew right on the edge, you get a pintuck!
Modern sewists came up with a simpler method of sewing pintucks with a twin needle and a special presser foot. Either the modern or the traditional method makes lovely pintucks.
So why sew tucks?
Create texture and dimension in an otherwise plain fabric or design!
Add tucks at the hem of a skirt to give fullness and volume to the shape!
You might be familiar with pintucks, which are simply a teeny-tiny tuck the width of a pin. The skirt below features 1/4" tucks and 5/8" wide tucks.
Any width of tuck is sewn by carefully measuring and pressing a fold, then stitching close to that fold. The distance from the fold determines the width of the tuck.
Sew 1/4" from the fold, you get a 1/4" tuck. Sew right on the edge, you get a pintuck!
Modern sewists came up with a simpler method of sewing pintucks with a twin needle and a special presser foot. Either the modern or the traditional method makes lovely pintucks.
So why sew tucks?
Create texture and dimension in an otherwise plain fabric or design!
Add tucks at the hem of a skirt to give fullness and volume to the shape!
Incorporate shaping into a blouse with tucks that release over the bust!
Friday, March 4, 2022
Friday Fun Fact: Jacquard
People have been trying new ways to make fabric decorative for centuries.
Complex weaves like the jacquard fabric above require complex looms. The jacquard machine was a loom attachment created by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1804, and used an extensive series of punched cards to create the pattern.
Unlike earlier brocade weaving techniques, jacquard weaves don't have long, floating threads on the back, making them essentially double-sided.
If you ever worked with early computers, you might find the punched cards familiar. In fact, the jacquard loom was the inspiration for punch-card computing!
While historic jacquard fabrics featured complex floral and scrollwork designs, modern interpretations range from traditional to abstract and everywhere in between.
Learn more here!
Click here to see a video of a jacquard loom in action!
p.s. I have now spelled jacquard so many times I think I've finally got it memorized!
Complex weaves like the jacquard fabric above require complex looms. The jacquard machine was a loom attachment created by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1804, and used an extensive series of punched cards to create the pattern.
If you ever worked with early computers, you might find the punched cards familiar. In fact, the jacquard loom was the inspiration for punch-card computing!
While historic jacquard fabrics featured complex floral and scrollwork designs, modern interpretations range from traditional to abstract and everywhere in between.
Learn more here!
Click here to see a video of a jacquard loom in action!
p.s. I have now spelled jacquard so many times I think I've finally got it memorized!
Friday, February 18, 2022
Friday Fun Fact: Bakelite
What is Bakelite and why is it special?
Let's talk about the early plastics that you'll often see in our vintage buttons.
Many types of plastic based on naturally-sourced proteins and cellulose were developed in the late 1880s and early 1900s.
Celluloid was often referred to as "faux ivory" and was used for jewelry, dolls, pens, buttons, and other decorative objects, but had the drawback of being flammable.
Casein is a plastic material made from milk proteins (yes, milk! Like you drink!). It was popular for buttons and other small decorative objects as it was easy to mold and took dyes well.
Bakelite was the first fully synthetic plastic, revolutionizing the plastics industry. It's hard, smooth, and more heat-resistant than older plastics, making it an ideal choice for button manufacture.
Its quick molding time made it possible to experiment with loads of fun and wacky designs. Vintage Bakelite is still something truly special.
Let's talk about the early plastics that you'll often see in our vintage buttons.
Celluloid was often referred to as "faux ivory" and was used for jewelry, dolls, pens, buttons, and other decorative objects, but had the drawback of being flammable.
Casein is a plastic material made from milk proteins (yes, milk! Like you drink!). It was popular for buttons and other small decorative objects as it was easy to mold and took dyes well.
Bakelite was the first fully synthetic plastic, revolutionizing the plastics industry. It's hard, smooth, and more heat-resistant than older plastics, making it an ideal choice for button manufacture.
Its quick molding time made it possible to experiment with loads of fun and wacky designs. Vintage Bakelite is still something truly special.
Friday, February 11, 2022
Friday Fun Fact: Fabric pre-washing secrets!
We recommend prewashing most fabrics before you sew, using the method you plan to use to wash the finished project.
Yes, even silk.
Yes, even wool.
If you plan to machine wash the finished project - great for cotton, linen, flannel, and rayon - go ahead and machine wash and dry the fabric. Just throw it in with your usual laundry, keeping colors in mind.
You can hand-wash wool to pre-shrink, or have it steamed at a dry cleaner. Use cold water and avoid agitating. Let it soak a bit, then squeeze the extra water out and air-dry.
Soft silks can get a cool hand wash and hang dry.
The exceptions?
Quilting fabrics - prewashing them is optional, but with small pre-cuts like jelly rolls, prewashing can ravel way too much fabric away and ruin your perfect 2.5" strips, so don't prewash those!
You can also skip prewashing 100% polyester, since it's unlikely to shrink or change.
Crisp silks like taffeta and dupioni will soften with washing, so avoid prewashing.
Yes, even silk.
Yes, even wool.
You can hand-wash wool to pre-shrink, or have it steamed at a dry cleaner. Use cold water and avoid agitating. Let it soak a bit, then squeeze the extra water out and air-dry.
Soft silks can get a cool hand wash and hang dry.
The exceptions?
Quilting fabrics - prewashing them is optional, but with small pre-cuts like jelly rolls, prewashing can ravel way too much fabric away and ruin your perfect 2.5" strips, so don't prewash those!
You can also skip prewashing 100% polyester, since it's unlikely to shrink or change.
Crisp silks like taffeta and dupioni will soften with washing, so avoid prewashing.
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