Friday Fun Fact: The math and logic of pleats

Hey folks, it's Elizabeth here, and I'm so excited about this fun fact!

Today we're talking about making pleats. Specifically, the math and logic of pleats.

Let’s begin with basic pleat structure. If you’ve never made pleats before, here’s a quick tutorial.

If you are working from a pattern, you’ll often see a marking of a solid line with an arrow connecting it to a dotted line (top right picture).

To make the pleat, fold and pick up the fabric on the solid line and bring it to meet the dotted line. There’s your basic pleat, or knife pleat.

Sometimes you’ll just baste across the top of the pleat, other times you might edgestitch along the length of the pleat. You can do whatever your pattern suggests.

Often, when I’m working with pleats, I’m not using a pattern. That means I get to figure it out myself! Generally, I am pretty easygoing about pleats. They definitely don’t need to be perfect! If my pleats vary a little, I do not care. But there is a little bit of math we can do to take some of the guesswork out.

In these examples, let’s suppose we’re trying to fit a big piece of fabric - such as the top of a skirt or a ruffle - into a finite, smaller measurement - like the skirt’s waistband, or whatever you’re attaching the ruffle to.

A pleat makes a Z-fold in your fabric, which means that you’re creating three layers out of one. That means your pleated fabric takes up only 1/3 as much space as your original fabric.

If your pleats just touch each other, your starting fabric length should be three times your desired finished length. 3” of fabric will pleat into 1”, or 30” will pleat into 10”, and so on.

That’s the simplest way. But let’s explore some other examples, starting with spaced out pleats.

Check the diagram below with 1" pleats and 1/2" spaces. That places each pleat one half pleat width apart.

We can count up the finished length of three pleats plus three spaces to equal 4 1/2". Then we can count up the total fabric length to get 10 1/2". 

4.5 x 2.333 = 10.5

So, if your pleats are one half pleat width apart (like our example above) cut your fabric 2.333 times your desired finished length. 

If your pleats are one pleat width apart (for example, 1” pleats with a 1” space in between) cut your fabric 2 times your desired finished length. (This example is not pictured.)

Sometimes we want our pleats to be even closer than just touching - we want them to overlap. This is common when pleating a very full skirt.

We generally can’t have pleats overlap by one whole pleat width, because then we’d just get a giant stack of pleats that went nowhere but up! So let’s move on.

For pleats that overlap by half the pleat width, cut your fabric 4.333 times the finished width you need. (I didn't draw this one, so you'll just have to trust me.)

For other kinds of spacing, you can sketch it out on paper and experiment! Spoiler alert: that’s all I have done to figure these out.

It’s crucial to remember that the size of the pleat DOES NOT MATTER for these formulas. A 1” wide pleat triples the fabric, and so does a ½” wide pleat. We’re using a 1” example just to make it simple.

Okay, now that we’ve done all that math, it’s important to remember that fabric and human hands are not mathematically perfect. Fabric moves and stretches and wiggles, and there is a limit to the accuracy of human hands. 

So if you do all this work and your pleats are still not perfect, don’t despair! Here are a few more tips:

- With most fabrics, your pleats will have a tendency to “grow” or spread out, so I always make mine spaced slightly closer than I need.

- It’s easy to go back and adjust one or two pleats to get the fabric to the desired length, and it generally won’t be visible in the finished garment.

- Box pleats are two knife pleats facing each other, so when doing the math for box pleats, you just count it as two pleats.

Another great resource for this kind of thing is the book The Art of Manipulating Fabric by Colette Wolff.

Check out all our Friday Fun Facts in the archive here!

Friday Fun Fact: Making a Mockup

Hey it's Elizabeth, and today we're talking about making a muslin mockup.

Some sewists just call it a muslin, others a mockup, but either way, it's a basic test version of your garment used to check fit.

Mockups are basic, made of cheap fabric, and are never meant to be made into completed garments. Use old sheets, thrifted fabric, or any basic, stable woven. Machine sew them together, and don't bother with seam finishes, hems, facings, pockets, or tidy details.

You'll try the mockup on and see where changes to the fit could be made. Often this involves pinning, cutting, and drawing on the fabric. My favorite thing to do is take pictures - it's so much easier to analyze the pics than just look in the mirror!

When everything looks good, you'll transfer the changes to your paper pattern.

I am often asked about when a mockup is necessary, or whether I make one for every single garment I sew.

I personally make mockups for about 80% of my projects. I'll skip one if my project is made from a knit or if it's very loose-fitting, such as pajama pants.

I'll also do a mockup if I'm not sure about the style of the finished garment and want to check it out before I commit to sewing.

Want to know more? Michele and I will cover tons of common pattern adjustments in our Fitting Starts Here class! 

Check out all our Friday Fun Facts in the archive here!

Friday Fun Fact: Fork Pleats!

Here's my favorite way to make pleated trim: with a fork!

I first learned this technique almost 20 years ago in an online discussion forum about sewing Victorian costumes. It's the easiest way to make perfectly neat and consistent pleats!

First create your fabric strip. Cut your fabric as wide as you want the pleated trim plus hem allowance, and three times as long as the edge you're attaching it to. 

Next join them all together, and hem the bottom edge. If the top edge will be visible, hem that too.

​​​​​​​If you're using ribbon, you can skip the hemming and go straight to the pleats!

Set your sewing machine to a basting length and start stitching on one end of the strip. Now it's time to start making pleats! Grab your fork (and lick the cake crumbs off).

Insert the fork, give it a twirl, and voila! There's your pleat!

(Need more visuals? Scroll to the bottom for the video.)

As you go, pay attention to your spacing. Push each pleat snugly up against the last one, but not overlapping.

Now hold the pleat in place with your fingers while you slide the fork out. (We definitely don't want to sew over the fork.) Stitch along the edge to hold the pleat in place.

Repeat until you have all the pleated trim you want! Then take it to the ironing board for a good press.

You'll need to manipulate it a bit as you iron to keep the pleats even along the length.

Now you can sew your perfectly pressed pleats into place!

You can use different-sized forks to get different sized pleats. I've used a tiny fondue fork in the past for really little ones!

You can see more of the process in the video!

Check out all our Friday Fun Facts in the archive here!

Friday Fun Fact: Measuring stretch

Here's how we measure stretch!

You may have noticed the stretchiness of fabrics expressed in percentages in our online shop. Here's how those numbers are calculated.

First, identify the fabric's selvage. Just like wovens, knits have a selvage, straight grain, and cross grain.

On a printed knit, it's easy to find the selvage. On a solid color, look for the edge with tiny perforations or just find the edge that wasn't cut when you bought the fabric.

Stretch is measured along the cross grain, since that's usually what ends up going around the body, where we need the stretch.

Next, make a fold along the cross grain that's several inches deep. The fabric will stretch more along the cut edge, so measuring along the fold is more accurate.

Measure 10" of fabric relaxed, then stretch the fabric as far as you comfortably can. However many inches you gain is the stretch percentage!

So if 10" of fabric stretches to 14", we've added 4", or 40% of our original measurement. We call that 40% stretch.

Patterns will often tell you how much stretch a fabric needs to make the garment successful. The more fitted a garment is, the more stretchy your knit should be!

Oversized tops and sweatshirts can be made with less stretchy knits, while leggings and swimwear need the most stretch.

Check out all our Friday Fun Facts in the archive here!

Friday Fun Fact: Spacing buttonholes

After last week's fun fact on sewing buttons properly, I wanted to address a question I often get in class: how to position your buttons and buttonholes.

First, decide how many buttons to use. The quantity on the pattern is just a suggestion - and so is the size! I like to lay out the buttons and try out different quantities to see what I think looks best. It's okay if the buttons aren't perfectly spaced, we're just estimating to get an idea.

 

Generally, if you're using smaller buttons, use more. If you're using larger buttons, use fewer. Odd numbers tend to look more pleasing but there's no hard and fast rule.

Next, position your top and bottom buttonhole. The top one is generally on the collar stand or the very top of the placket, not more than 1" down. The bottom button doesn't have to be right at the lower edge; it can be several inches up.

 

Then, to position all the buttons evenly, we're gonna do a lil math. Don't worry, it's gonna be okay, I'm here for you. Plus we're using a calculator, I'm not a monster.

Measure the distance between the top and bottom and divide by the number of spaces between the buttons (not the number of buttons!). The answer you get is how much to measure between each button.

So I've got 8 buttons, and 15 inches between my markings. I'll divide 15 by 7 (the number of spaces!) to get 2.14, which is about 2 1/8".

Grab your seam gauge and chalk mark each position, starting from the top. It's okay if your bottom one has shifted a bit - we really just want every mark to be the same distance. Now you're ready to sew your buttonholes!

As to the buttonhole sewing, all machines vary, so it's hard to give specific tips. One thing is universal, though: always sew a few test buttonholes! Use scraps of the actual garment fabric plus any interfacing you used in the garment. Practice until the buttonholes are the right size (test the button!) and the stitches look good.

Then sew your buttons - check last week's Friday Fun Fact for tips!

Friday Fun Fact: Sewing a button

We're going back to basics here today - sewing a button on!

I recently made this shirt for my kiddo and it was a great opportunity to show them - and all of you! - how to sew buttons on the best way.

You'll need your buttons, needles, scissors, pins, beeswax, and thread. Cotton thread is always easier to handsew with as it doesn't shred and tangle. Why beeswax? Read more here!

I always use a single thread while sewing, except when attaching buttons. Use a doubled thread here to make it go faster!

Run your thread through the beeswax and then scrape it with your fingernail to smooth it out. The beeswax helps the thread stay tangle-free, and makes it easier to thread your needle! 

Secure your thread and come up where you want your button to be.

Here's the part that's often overlooked: hold a pin or other spacer on top of the button and sew over it. This creates space in the stitches that keep the button from puckering and give it room to lie flat.

Match the spacer to the fabric - for a thin shirting cotton like this, a small pin is enough. For a thick wool coat, use a knitting needle, wooden match, or even a chopstick.

Stitch through each pair of holes 4-6 times.

Then come up under your button, remove the spacer, and use the working thread to wrap the thread stem under the button a few times.

After that, you can secure with a knot and bury your thread tail. Admire your perfectly sewn buttons!

Check out all our Friday Fun Facts in the archive here!

Friday Fun Fact: Drafting poofy sleeves

Poofy sleeves are in again, and you won't believe how easy it is to modify your pattern and sew this style!

I drew some sketches for you for this one, and keep in mind that I Cannot Draw, so hopefully this gets the point across, though it won't win any art prizes.

All you need to start with is a basic sleeve pattern, a pencil, some extra paper, and tape.

We're going to add volume by slashing the pattern and spreading it. Then you can simply gather the sleeve into your armscye for extra poof!

Because you're gathering the sleeve cap, the measurements don't need to be exact. You can afford to estimate here!

First, draw vertical lines down the entire length of the sleeve. 

Then cut along the lines and tape them all to a big piece of paper, spreading your pieces out. Keep the bottom edge aligned.

Connect the edges and smooth out the jogs (a curved fashion ruler can help with this! - get one here)

Gather the extra fullness into a cuff or just let it stay loose!

This works just as well for a short or long sleeve.

If you prefer to keep the sleeve cap smooth, but still want some fun floof, hinge your cuts so that the sleeve cap stays the same, and add only to the lower edge.

Then you can gather just at the bottom for a puff at the wrist, or leave it loose for a bell or flutter sleeve.

Bonus tip: You can add a little more fullness to a cuffed sleeve by adding a couple extra inches of length, too! That's how you get those romantic poet sleeves.

I had a lot of fun making doodles for you guys, so I hope they inspire you to modify your sleeves with confidence!

Check out all our Friday Fun Facts in the archive here!

Friday Fun Fact: Dart Basting

Hey it's Elizabeth and today I'm showing you my favorite method for basting a dart!

This is a great technique for large, long, or curvy darts - any time when just pinning the dart is too unwieldy.

We're starting on the wrong side since that's where you want to have your dart marked.

First we're going to use a gauge to mark every inch on both sides of the dart. These markings have to be parallel.



Thread a needle with a long basting thread. Don't make a knot, just leave a long thread tail.

Sew across the dart from one marking to the other. 

Then work your way up the dart, going from side to side. 

When you get to the point, make a tiny stitch across.

When you're done, you should see alternating stitches going up the dart lines on the wrong side, and stitches that go across on the right side.

Now for the fun part! We're going to pull both ends of the basting thread to fold the dart. 



Grab each end of your basting thread and pull. You'll see the dart start to fold up on itself.

Once your dart is flat and aligned, it's ready to sew on the machine! You can sew right on your dart lines - it's okay if you sew over your basting.



After you sew, pick out any basting that's visible from the right side, then press your dart how you normally would. (I recommend using a ham!)

Check out all our Friday Fun Facts in the archive here!

Friday Fun Fact: Lined patch pocket tutorial

I love a rounded patch pocket, but pressing under a curved edge can be a pain. I've had some success with templates and pressing cloths (and I'll show you that method sometime, too!) but my favorite way to ensure a smooth edge on a rounded pocket is to line it.

How do we do that? Just cut two of your pocket piece for each pocket. You can use the same fabric as the garment, OR if your garment fabric is heavy, you can choose a lining fabric or lightweight cotton for the inside piece.

With your pieces right sides together, stitch almost all the way around the outer edge, leaving a 2" opening at the side.

Next it's crucial to trim and snip your corners and curves! We covered that in a fun fact you can see here!

All clipped and trimmed? Great, it's time to turn the pocket right side out. It's going to look like a lump at first (see below) but some ironing will take care of that!



See our fun fact on turning a clean edge here!

Tuck the opening edge inside and press it, but don't worry about sewing it closed yet.

Once your pocket is all neat and pressed, align it where you want on your garment and pin in place. The ideal placement for most people places the top of the pocket about 3-4" below the waist.

To create a little more room in your pocket, scoot the upper corners in by 1/8" on each side. This small adjustment stops your pocket from laying totally flat and makes it easier to put stuff inside!

Next, edgestitch your pocket in place. Sew as close as you can to the edge, so there's no flap of fabric left on the outside. Really get right on that edge!

Now your pocket is done! Go forth and carry many things! 

Have a request for a Friday Fun Fact? Want to know some specific sewing history or get an in-depth tutorial? Let us know!