Friday Fun fact: Cartridge Pleats

I've got cartridge pleats on my mind!

I recently used this pleating technique on a dress and was thrilled with the result, but a lot of people asked me what the heck a cartridge pleat is and what's so great about them?

If you have a LOT of fabric you want to cram into a small space, and you enjoy a little hand sewing, cartridge pleats are for you.

This technique was quite common in the 15th and 16 centuries, and probably existed far before then. 

Unlike your typical knife or box pleat, the edges of cartridge pleats aren’t sewn into a seam, but stand at a 90 degree angle to the garment they are sewn to.

They’re made by creating multiple rows of long running stitches along a finished edge.

These stitches are made with a strong thread, then pulled to gather into perfect little pleats.

The pleats then have to be hand sewn in place; they’re far too bulky to be sewn by machine.

This is a great way to create lots of dramatic volume in a garment!

(This is also a great way to illustrate the effects of different lighting on your fabric colors!)

You can see a simple tutorial on this technique here.

Check out all our Friday Fun Facts in the archive!

Treadle Make Tuesday: Chineze's first dress!

Treadle student Chineze has been taking sewing classes with us for a couple years, making lots of different projects, but here is her first complete garment made from a pattern. 

She used a soft cotton voile and Vogue pattern 1698 to make this cute spring dress.

We're so proud of all the hard work and dedication Chineze has put into sewing class these last couple years. Way to go, girl!

Pattern of the Month for May 2023

It's the Chalk and Notch Fringe dress!

Okay, there is no fringe on this dress and we don't know why it's called that, sorry. But this design is plenty of fun, with a curved shirt-tail hem shape, two neckline and sleeve options, and optional waist ties to cinch up the fit.

Buy yours at the special price all month - get it here!

Elizabeth's version is view A made from a paisley rayon challis. 

I loved the bust cup sizing options! Just because a pattern has a loose, comfy fit, that doesn't mean I'll settle for a shapeless bag. The waist ties mean you can get a just right fit all the time.

The sleeve tab is another cute detail and a great way to show off a lovely button!

Friday Fun Fact: Satirical fashion prints

Hey folks, it's me Elizabeth, talking about historical fashion with you again!

Fashion history is full of weird and wild trends. But sometimes you might not realize you're looking at a satirical image that's poking fun at the trends, not the actual thing worn by real people!

Satirical prints became popular in the 18th century and really boomed with Punch magazine in the 19th century.

Prints that satirized popular fashion often took a trend and carried it to an absurd extreme. 

I've attached some of my favorite fashion satire images to examples of what the real thing would have looked like at the time. The real thing might look odd to us, but it's still wearable!

Next time you see an article about "10 Fashion Trends Men Hate," think about all these ways men have hated everything we've worn for centuries! (And then go wear whatever the heck you want!)

Check out all our Friday Fun Facts in the archive here!

Treadle Make Tuesday: Chelda's elegant circle dress

Every Tuesday we share projects from Treadle Yard Goods employees (a.k.a. The Treadlettes) and our customers and fans!

Treadle fan Chelda has been sewing with us for a couple years now, and she's always working on something glamorous.

Her latest make is deceptively simple! Chelda used the purple Bumbleberries print to make a flowing circular dress with a dramatic bow and tons of swoosh!

It's a great reminder not to underestimate what you can do with beautiful fabric.

Chelda has loved attending our classes and Sewing Socials - check out our classes here to see what you can make!

Want more project inspiration? Check out the #mytreadlemake tag on Instagram. Anyone can use this tag to share something they're made with our fabric, buttons, or notions, in our classes, or just with our advice and support!

Friday Fun Fact: What's a serger?

We've had a great response in the last few months to our new Serger Basics class, but it's also prompted the question: what the heck is a serger anyway?

A serger, also known as an overlock machine, has been in use in manufacturing for over a century. Versions for home use have been around since the 1960s.

Instead of the two-thread (spool and bobbin) system that your regular machine uses, a serger has 3 or 4 cones of thread. The threads run to two loopers and one or two needles to create a stitch that overcasts the edge.

Sergers also have a few extra features. A blade slices the extra fabric away as you sew, creating a perfectly tidy edge.

Most helpful, sergers have differential feed, a setting that allows you to get perfectly smooth seams on stretchy fabrics, knits, and delicates, without distorting the edge.

A serger can be a great additional machine to have around, especially if you like sewing knits.

Let's also mention what a serger is NOT: 

A serger is not a sewing machine. It can never totally replace your conventional machine.

A serger is not a cover stitch machine. That's an even more complex option that we'll discuss in a future Fun Fact!

Treadle Make Tuesday: State Fair Quilt

Every Tuesday we share projects from Treadle Yard Goods employees (a.k.a. The Treadlettes) and our customers and fans!

Rebecca made this cute State Fair quilt from the All-Minnesota Shop Hop fabric! 

See the fabric here!

Plus, she's written up some simple directions with diagrams into a FREE pattern handout. Stop into the store to get your copy!