After last week's fun fact on sewing buttons properly, I wanted to address a question I often get in class: how to position your buttons and buttonholes.
First, decide how many buttons to use. The quantity on the pattern is just a suggestion - and so is the size! I like to lay out the buttons and try out different quantities to see what I think looks best. It's okay if the buttons aren't perfectly spaced, we're just estimating to get an idea.
Generally, if you're using smaller buttons, use more. If you're using larger buttons, use fewer. Odd numbers tend to look more pleasing but there's no hard and fast rule.
Next, position your top and bottom buttonhole. The top one is generally on the collar stand or the very top of the placket, not more than 1" down. The bottom button doesn't have to be right at the lower edge; it can be several inches up.
Then, to position all the buttons evenly, we're gonna do a lil math. Don't worry, it's gonna be okay, I'm here for you. Plus we're using a calculator, I'm not a monster.
Measure the distance between the top and bottom and divide by the number of spaces between the buttons (not the number of buttons!). The answer you get is how much to measure between each button.
So I've got 8 buttons, and 15 inches between my markings. I'll divide 15 by 7 (the number of spaces!) to get 2.14, which is about 2 1/8".
Grab your seam gauge and chalk mark each position, starting from the top. It's okay if your bottom one has shifted a bit - we really just want every mark to be the same distance. Now you're ready to sew your buttonholes!
As to the buttonhole sewing, all machines vary, so it's hard to give specific tips. One thing is universal, though: always sew a few test buttonholes! Use scraps of the actual garment fabric plus any interfacing you used in the garment. Practice until the buttonholes are the right size (test the button!) and the stitches look good.
Then sew your buttons - check last week's Friday Fun Fact for tips!
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